Wednesday, May 15, 2013

An Overdue Post About Tui, Spain

A side street in Tui

Since we returned from Galicia last October, revisions, dog problems, and health issues in my god-family interrupted my posting about the trip. Because of our dog's age-related condition we are staggering our trips this year, and it occurred to me it's time to finish the post I promised: the trip to Tui, pronounced "Twee". (My husband just came back from his trip to Galicia two and a half weeks ago, and I'm leaving for my trip June 8th. I'll be posting while I'm there, though.)

But—returning to the trip to Portugal last fall—we spent an afternoon in Tui with our friends, David and Terri, on the way back from Porto. Porto, a bay city and a port, is on the Río Douro (the Portuguese name for Río Duero in Spanish); Tui is on the Río Minho (the Portuguese name for Río Miño, and pronounced the same way.) The Río Minho partially divides Spain from Portugal. (You can see a map of the Iberian Peninsula and the Río Minho HERE ).

Walking around Tui
Typical balconies
One view of the Cathedral.
 As is always the case in Iberia, it was a lovely drive from one city to the other. Once we reached Tui, we parked and spent the afternoon walking around. Tui is a cathedral town, as well as an old fortress town from the 12th and 18th centuries. The original city was enclosed by a crenelated stone wall. We started at the old quarter that clusters around the huge cathedral and ancient hospital for the poor (as well as for the peregrinos, or pilgrims—Tui is one of the pilgrim stops on the way to Santiago de Compostela). The cathedral was started in the 12th century and finished in the 17th century, and thus reflects a variety of architectures. It also has a cloister. And the front entrance, the portal, is truly awesome with fantastic stone statues of saints:

                   
Then we walked from the cathedral area with its adjoining buildings, down to the river, which was smooth as glass. The river walk along the Río Miño turned into a series of reflected scenes, as if on a mirror. On the opposite side was the ancient fortress city of Valença (pronounced Valensa) in Portugal. You can see we had good weather that day.
                                                                                           

There was also a small exercise park at one point; a "playground for seniors". And then, just as we thought we were coming to a dead end, we saw a road going back up to the Cathedral. By that time, we were all hungry, and David found a charming cafe (A Muralla) that overlooked another street and had outdoor tables covered by awnings, from which you could also see across to Portugal. (A nice view of the balcony section of the restaurant can be seen at A Muralla, Tui - Opiniones de restaurantes - TripAdvisor.) The food was delicious. And a very nice waiter took our picture before we left.

Senior playground?
                                                       
Starting back to the old quarter

A great end to the afternoon!
I hope you enjoyed this little taste of Tui. (Tui is in Galicia, in the province of Pontevedra.) I am always so amazed by the ancient stone buildings, the sculpture work, and the general architecture, that I see in that region. But I suspect much of Europe is like that.

For those of you who have traveled to other parts of Europe, I'd be interested in similarities or differences you've noticed in the places you've visited.



Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Time Out For Another Week While I Finish a Re-write


Dear Blog Friends,

Please excuse my being remiss in posting. I'm finishing up a re-write and should be done next week.

Please come back after April 23rd. Thanks.


OOPS! A LITTLE BIT LONGER, AFTER ALL. I SHOULD BE FINISHED MAY 15TH. THANKS FOR YOUR PATIENCE.

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Quartet and Some Thoughts about Opera


A more realistic photograph of the composer.


Verdi, who's birthday becomes the focus of this wonderful story.













I don't usually review movies, but the recent movie, Quartet, a movie about opera, opera singers, and so much more, has special resonance for me.

My mother was an opera singer. Not a famous one. You could say she was a failed opera singer. In her head she was simply an undiscovered one. She never got beyond parts in light opera at the Maya Theater in L.A., concerts in Mexico, and understudy at the San Francisco Opera Company for the role of Marguerite in Faust. The family legend was that she turned down that contract when she learned it meant she would have to put me and my middle brother out for adoption. (My older brother from a previous marriage was being raised by my grandparents in L.A.)

Opera never left my mother, not for a minute. A single mom raising kids from more than one marriage, ill-trained for the working world, she held numerous jobs through the years from clerking in music stores and bookstores, cashiering for the Greyhound bus station, playing piano in cocktail lounges, to sometimes opening vocal studios. All the while, opera continued to play in her head, exerting its promise over her imagination—overtures, arias, duets, heartbreak scenes, applause, curtain calls, the overall magic that made the stage more real than ordinary life.

Quartet, the movie directed by Dustin Hoffman, has a magnificent cast, glorious music, a tender plot, some funny, funny scenes, and a sweet, happy ending. But what moved me so much that I had to see it twice, was the way Quartet brings to life the essence of what opera means to the singers, and what aging means to someone who once held audiences in thrall by the delivery of an impeccable high note.

A group of world famous musicians live in a retirement home for opera singers. Each year on Verdi's birthday they stage a musical performance as a fundraiser for the home. This year, the home is in danger of closing. What to do? Then the diva Jean Horton (Maggie Smith) retires to the home, and the director of the performance, Cedric Livingston (played wonderfully by Michael Gambon) has a brilliant idea: Jean, along with 3 other famous singers in the home should perform the quartet from Rigoletto.

However, Jean was married to Reginald Paget ("Reggie", played by Tom Courtenay), and the marriage ended badly. The other two singers, Cecily Robson ("Cissy", played by Pauline Collins) and Wilf Bond (Billy Connolly) offer humorous counterpoint to the emotionally fraught moments between Jean and Reggie: Cissy is on the edge of dementia and sometimes tips over into it in a way that is sweet and funny; Wilf is a wickedly endearing roué, always propositioning the female nurses and doctors. In earlier days, these four singers sang together in one of the most lauded performances of Rigoletto. They sang "the quartet", and it is Cedric Livingston's hope that performing it again will save the home.

Under Hoffman's direction and the splendid acting by all, Quartet opens up the world of opera that lingers long after the glory days onstage are over. Those days may be gone, but not a single singer in the movie has forgotten them. Cissy carries around and listens to a recording of their earlier Rigoletto. Jean furtively plays LPs of her own performances in her room. Each singer's room is decorated in posters and photographs showing their most famous moments. In the communal dining room another soprano, Dame Gwyneth Jones (Anne Langley), and Jean Horton trade snipes in cultured put-downs about high notes and curtain calls. Through it all, music continues to pulse through their hearts and minds, along with memories of their rarified lives. And rarified is the word. Instead of knitting for grandchildren, or making birdies in golf, their memories are about waiting in the wings, slowly losing oneself, then stepping out into the music and letting the voice blossom forth.

My mother once told me she only felt fully alive when she was singing. At first I found that melodramatic. But when I thought about it some more, it seemed a reasonable statement for someone who cared so passionately about opera: You could say when one plays a piano, the piano comes briefly alive: Hammers strike the hidden strings, and music flows out and touches listeners. When silent again, a piano goes back to being simply a piece of furniture. In opera, the singer is the instrument. Music flows through the chest, the throat, the face, making the singer a vessel, a conduit. In essence, singers breathe music. When the music is over, they simply breathe. Alive, yes, but not the same kind of alive.

When my mother was 83 in a nursing home, I arrived one day to take her to lunch. I walked into her room, and stopped. She was listening to the radio (on earbuds so as not to disturb her room-mate). Her face was radiant. After a moment (the music over) she took out the ear buds and smiled at me. "That was the Queen of the Night's aria," she told me. (From Mozart's The Magic Flute.) "I could follow along in my head," she exulted. "I didn't miss a single note!" And for a moment her face was young again, the future still a promise, the past rich with memory. Quartet gives you a kept promise.

If you haven't seen the trailer for this wonderful movie, go here: (Just be patient through a brief ad)

For some good listening you can hear the famous quartet here.


Monday, March 18, 2013

My New Blog Is Launched

So I've done it: I've started a new blog called, Victorian Scribbles, a historical blog about the Victorian Era in England, as well as the Victorian Era/Gilded Age in the United States and La Belle Époque in Europe (they overlapped). Please click here or go to the top and click "My Other Blog" to read the first post.

I hope you will read both blogs whenever you have time.

Whichever blog you return to the most, I hope you will comment and leave information about yourself, so that I can read your blog. I love meeting new bloggers and keeping in touch with old blogging friends.

Ciao for now,

Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Liebster Award

Out of the blue, I was recently (and kindly, I might add) awarded The Liebster Award, by Murees Dupé at  Daily Drama of an Aspiring Writer.

Here's how it works:




Liebster Award Rules:


1. Thank the blogger who gave you the award and link back to his or her blog.
2. Answer 11 questions from the presenter; list 11 random facts about you and create 11 questions for your nominees. (Whew, this part is a lot of work, which is why it's taking me awhile to complete.)
3. Present the Liebster Award to 11 bloggers whose blogs have 200 followers or less and whom you feel deserve to be noticed. Leave a comment on their blog notifying them of your nomination.
4. Upload the Liebster Award to your own blog.

Murees's Questions for Me:
1. What is the worst job you ever had?  A laundry I worked in, once. The biggest problem was boredom.
2. What is your favorite snack? Cookies. Any kind. I love them.
3. What is your favorite TV series? Downton Abbey. I confess, I'm hooked.
4. Who would you like to meet? (Person could be dead or alive.) Hmm. Perhaps Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. Then I could ask him why he felt his Holmes stories weren't literary.
5. If you could be any animal, what would it be? A dog. They are such noble creatures.
6. What are you most grateful for? My marriage, my extended family, and my friends.
7. What do you hate? I don't hate.
8. Do you include exercise into your daily routine? I should, shouldn't I . . . Does gardening count?
9. Do you like animals? Dogs, cats, horses, for sure. Maybe not octopi.
10.What is your favorite season? Fall, but Spring runs a close second.
11.What is your favorite food? South Indian cuisine. So many delicious dishes. So much variety.

Eleven Random Facts About Me:
1.  I love to read a good mystery, whether for adults or for children.
2.  I love poetry, both reading it and writing it.
3.  So, it follows that I hang out at book stores and libraries, right?
4.  I love the French Impressionist painters.
5.  I'm hooked on the Victorian Era. So much so, that I'm starting a second blog, called, Victorian Scribbles. It's still in construction, but it should be ready for visits by next week. Take a peek.
6.  I love opera. Especially Puccini's operas. Especially La Boheme, Madame Butterfly, and Tosca.
7.  I once nibbled a dog biscuit just to see what the appeal was for my dog. I don't recommend it; not my kind of cookie. Probably not yours, either.
8.  One of my ambitions in life is to walk a part of the pilgrimage road in Galicia that leads to Santiago. To get a certificate, you have to walk 100 kilometers on it. (Hmm, maybe I should start exercising. See Murees's question #8.)
9.  I drink a cup of hot chocolate every morning. It's a great way to start the day.
10.That said, I'm not particularly keen on chocolate per se. I mean, I enjoy a piece now and then, but I can have a gift box of chocolates on the shelf for a good six months before its contents are finally gone.
11.Some day I would like to go to Ireland. It's a land that seems (to me) both haunting and haunted.

Here's My List of Questions for My Award Recipients:
1.  Who is your favorite artist?
2.  Favorite author?
3.  Have you ever interviewed someone? If so, who? and about what?
4.  What is your favorite genre in literature?
5.  Do you speak any languages other than English?
6.  If you were 19, what career would you choose—the one you did choose, or another?
7.  Which deceased author would you most like to meet, and why?
8.  Which living author would you most like to meet, and why?
9.  What is number one on your bucket list?
10. Do you believe in Hobbits?
11. If you could travel anywhere in the world, where would you go?

And Here Are My Picks for the Liebster Award:
(Go check out their sites; they write good stuff!)
1.  Rosi Hollinbeck - The Write Stuff
2.  JaNay Brown - JaNay With Words
3.  Richard Hughes - Writing and Living by Richard P. Hughes
4.  Victoria Lindstrom - Writ of Whimsy
5.  Julia Hones - My Writing Life
6.  Catherine Winn - The Writing Room
7.  Julie Luek - A Thought Grows
8.  Joanna Marple - Miss Marple's Musings
9.  Linda Jackson - Writers Do Laundry Too
10.Shannon Lawrence - Writing from the Peak
11.Kenda Turner - Words and Such

Ciao for now . . .



Friday, March 1, 2013

Return to Portugal

A city of cathedrals
Porto from the river.
An amazing wine shop/bar.












It's time for Portugal again. Our dog has improved. My godfather's health is improving. And now I'm ready to return to O Porto, albeit only in memory and in pictures.


For those of you who lost the thread of that journey, on our fall trip to Galicia my husband and I went with friends Terri and David to the old city of Porto, for three days and two nights. Porto is like an aging beauty queen: Despite the make-up and glittery clothing of main streets and the wharf side cafes and shops, you can see the "wrinkles" on back streets. But Porto has an air of grandeur, of lost days of glory still sparkling on tiled walls and statues, on the gleaming waters of the Rio Douro where boats bob on rippling water and reflections of colorful buildings on the far bank shimmer below on the wet surface. Just writing about it brings it all back. You can see why:

A city of statues.

The wharf-side

A back street.
The far bank.

You can scroll back to read the earlier post about our first day there and where we stayed. And also the fabulous restaurant where we ate: O Forno (which means "the oven"). Also, in the earlier post you can see the lovely tile work of our hotel and the wonderful garden grounds.

The second morning, when we headed out to sightsee, we noticed a school across the street, and several young girls were crowded at the window, waving at us. Then the teacher must have told them to sit down, because a moment after the picture below, they all vanished.

On our way to the wharf, we passed the wine shop you see above, at the beginning of this post, and again below. The owner is from Brazil. The shop was absolutely tiny, with a small bar that would seat four at most, and the shelves were lined with every kind of bottle of wine you could imagine. We stopped by on the way back and enjoyed a glass of port. I am not really a port drinker, but it was good to try. After all, Portugal is the inventor of port.

Rajan photographing the wineshop.

School of curious girls.

On our way up the river.
Once we got to the wharf, we could not resist the call of the river. So we boarded a boat for an hour-long river cruise.













And what wonderful sights we did see! Below are just a few samples.

Leaving the wharf.



I love the woods behind buildings.



A hidden castle in those woods.
So much color!
Awesome bridge for sure.


 For every one of these, we have oodles more. It was a splendid sight up and down the river.
A truly grand view.



Two rather interesting boats, we thought.
   







With the wind rippling against our faces and the smell of freshness surrounding us, once we returned to land, we were hungry. So we ate at a charming little restaurant with great atmosphere at the wharf—its name eludes me, alas.


The restaurant.
Our server.

The atmosphere.
 And then we walked around the city some more, before going home. Later, of course, we ventured out to eat a late supper. And then the next morning we left so that we would have time to stop in the city of Tui on the Spanish side of the Rio Minho (Portuguese) or Rio Miño (Spanish). Tui, in Spain, is an old castle town with a huge cathedral, and is across the river from Valença, an old fortress town in Portugal. But that will have to be for another day.

Meanwhile, I hope you enjoyed this little (and limited) trip to Portugal.

Friday, February 15, 2013

Life Is Complicated Right Now



No travel or writing post today, but it seemed time to post. Our dog is improving, but still acting weird, and I don't think he'll ever quite come back to where he was before his episode. His head still waggles when he looks up at you. He lurches from side to side when he walks. And he can laboriously climb the four stairs to our back door, with one of us hovering near by, but we have to help him down the stairs or he loses balance. I think this will be the pattern for the short rest if his life, but he still has his sweet personality.



But there are other concerns in my life and my husband's as well. My godfather has been quite ill with pneumonia. He's out of hospital and into a "restorative care" facility, but it's a bit touch and go as to how "restored" he'll be. He's on an oxygen tank now, and when he goes home, it will go with him, and his wife will need some assistance with the times he needs to get out of bed. He's 97 and has had a blessed life. He and my godmother  are incredible people who have impacted so many lives. They live about 90 miles away from us, so the past few days my husband and I took turns going to the Bay Area to visit.

Though it's sad to see him so helpless (and it really bothers him -- even at his age, he wants to be up and about), it's also an inspiration to see him and his wife. They have a wonderful, loving, even romantic relationship after 65 years of marriage. They laugh and tease each other and hold hands. (The whole family is like that. Their son and daughter and their spouses are as near and dear to us as they are, and even while visiting the facility, a lot of laughter fills the air and keeps all the attendants chuckling as well.) And, behind all the laughter, they have always been deeply philosophical folks, so the conversations get profound at times as well. You can see their spirits in the pictures above taken just a few years ago.

It's nice to write about this, because I walk around thinking about them all the time. Writing about anything else (travel, writing posts, book reviews, etc.) just doesn't seem, well, meaningful right now. It seems a time to be away from all that; a time for introspection and appreciation of the part they've all played in my life.

All this by way of saying that I won't be posting for awhile, though I'll definitely be back. And I will take time to read your posts when I can. Meanwhile, I wish you all happy writing until I "see" you again.

Ciao for now.