The Beaches in Northern Galicia

A few weeks ago, Rajan and I drove up to the northern coast to see the  beaches called "Os Catedrais" in Galego and "Los Catedrales" in Castilian, inspired by a trip we took last year with our friends, Terri & David. They are called 'cathedrals" because the waves have worn away the rocks and created caves like chambers in a cathedral, but it is only safe to go into them when the tide is out. This is what they looked like last year:

But on this trip, we did not get there at the correct time for going to the caves. We seemed to keep getting high tide. But we had a lovely time, since we love beaches anyway. We stayed at a nice hotel right on a nearby beach, walked to a restaurant we had enjoyed for lunch, and walked back, and took tons of pictures along the way. Here is what the cathedral beach looked like this time:

So we contented ourselves with photos from above.

Nonetheless, we loved the walk along the beaches and waterfront; sometimes along the road, back to out hotel, O Refugio. Here are some scenic pictures along the way:

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I particularly love the crazy architecture of the lavender house. It's actually a popular architecture in Galicia.

And there's a lot of pasture land away from the beaches.

Once back at the hotel, we enjoyed a glass of wine indoors and talked over our day. The hotel was very reasonable, perhaps because Galicia is reasonable, but also because we were off-season (it was still May) and mid-week (Wednesday night). But we had a lovely, clean, charming small room overlooking the ocean, and the management and staff were cheery and warm and welcoming, wanting to know all about us. Here are some pictures from the grounds:

The glass roof you see is the top of the outdoor part of the  restaurant and was right below our room's  window.

And this railing you see, above the glass roof was right outside our window.

 Me after we got back from our long walk, and Rajan the next morning at breakfast, trying to read one of the Spanish newspapers. (You'd be surprised how much news we are actually able to glean now and then! 😊) 

We also learned on this trip that one one of the beaches along a drive there is a small fishing village with wonderful reviews of the food. And at another spot along the drive, there is an ancient castro (and you know how we love ancient castros!) So that is on the travel list for our next trip to Galicia.

How about you? Do you love beaches? Fresh fish for dinner? Spooky caves?

Cliff & Rock Formations at Praia das Catedrais, Galicia

                                 

For nearly two months I have meant to blog about a week-end trip Rajan and I took with friends Terri & David and their neighbor, Montse, to a town called Foz and the nearby Praia das Catedrais—"Cathedrals Beach in Galegan." The many stretches of beach are on the coast of the Bay of Biscay, essentially the north coast of Galicia and Asturias, and we actually visited Praia das Catedrais last fall for part of one afternoon. We are drawn to beaches, and this collection of beaches has captured our imaginations.

The name "Cathedrals" or "Catedrais" is due to the fact that wind and tides have sculpted the cliffs into shapes that suggest cathedrals. The tides especially have carved out caves that can only be safely entered when the tide is out. Here I am above inside of one of the caves, entranced by the fact that these caves go on and on. You wouldn't want to be trapped inside when the tide comes in.

I'm not sure what kind of rock the cliffs were to lend themselves to being shaped so interestingly by the elements. The rock in every case seems in layers and at angles. Simply beautiful and mysterious.

Here are a few pictures that can give you a feel for how deep some of the caves are, looking in from the outside, and then looking out from the inside.

We were also treated to a solo concert by a man dressed in traditional Galician garb who played his gaito (a Galician type of bagpipe) for quite some time. I don't know if he's always there, but he was there the second day we visited, and apparently he's there often enough to earn the moniker, "the Gaitero Galego."

We were able to visit the area two days in a row, because Montse's brother owns a flat in Foz. (It's currently for sale, so it was un-occupied.) Though Foz is now a beach tourist town, it was once a whaling town, so there is a promenade with a breathtaking view to a history center that tells a little of the town's past. Here are some pictures of our little group and a view from the promenade.

Terri, Montse (with dog I want) me

Rajan and David, deep in conversation

The view.

This man was reading his paper as he walked
So much for the view!  😊😊

There was also a small bird park where I saw black swans for the first time in my life. Swans are perhaps my favorite bird. (Well, peacocks are pretty high up there, too. )I have always thought swans so beautiful, and these were no exception. The light just shimmered off their black feathers. And look at those graceful necks. Naturally they made me think of the ballet, Swan Lake, and Odile, the sorcerer's daughter.

And soon it was time to pack up, find lunch, and return to Monforte and Trasulfe—about a three hour drive. But it was certainly a week-end to remember! Rajan and I want to go back during our next trip to Galicia so he can take some good black-and-white film photos.

How about you? Are you drawn to beaches? Do like swans? Have you ever gone deep into a cave?