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A plate full of pulpo. You eat it with
toothpicks, bite by bite. Then you
break off chunks of crusty bread and
sop up the spiced olive oil. Yum! |
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Our wonderful neighbor,
Miguel |
Today, despite the fact that it's nearly two weeks since our return from Portugal, I had every intention of writing a post about
Fado, the Portuguese art form of song we both love so much, to be followed by a later post mid-week about the photography festival we attended when we were in Braga Portugal.
But then our neighbor across the lane from us treated us to
pulpo at the
feria in Monforte, 20 minutes away from our village, and, as usual, we were enthusiastically swept away. (This is the neighbor who keeps sheep, and sometimes in the mornings, we awaken to their soft bleating.) Off we went, my Fado post tabled for another day.
Pulpo is octupus, boiled, cut in small pieces, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with salt and
pimiento - which in this area, means hot red pepper. All of our neighbors simply love
pulpo, and their enthusiasm has been contagious. Though vegetarians, we do eat
pescados and
mariscos (fish and seafood), but octopus was a new experience for us. When done right, meaning boiled long enough, it comes out moist and tender and just delicious. It is served at long tables, in special buildings at all the fair grounds, and one of the servers comes around with a bottle of the house red wine and a loaf of fresh bread to go with it.
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The woman boiling this pulpo
is the neighbor of a woman in
Turiz, Melucha, whom we met
years ago when she was walking
her cows down the road to graze.
The people in these neighboring
villages all know each other, so
Miguel was able to tell us this. |
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Rajan, adding his touch. We
actually see this woman and
another (who is distantly re-
lated to Miguel), at ferias in
the other villages, since the
market days in the villages
fall on different days. |
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One of the long tables set up for this
event. For those who don't like pulpo,
there is also barbequed beef or sausage. |
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Despite the note about beef, most of
these people are eating pulpo,
always the favorite. |
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| Good to the last drop. |
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| Definitely a satisfied customer. |
Feria is "fair" or market day, and in the mornings, nearly everything is sold at a
feria: shoes, blouses, scarves, belts, beaded jewelry, plants, fruit, all kinds of produce, honey, bread loaves of all types, utensils for making wine, utensils for making the home-made brandy so popular here,
aguardiente. One shot of that will blow your head off, but most people around here confine it to a little shot in their coffee when they do decide to have it. There is also a special drink they make, using
aguardiente, called
quemada, with orange peel, apple peel, coffee beans, and sugar, blogged about, before
, HERE. (Scroll down to the very bottom of it, and you'll learn about the drink and the history behind it, as well as seeing the clay vessel they make it in and the clay cups they serve it in; the set is also called a
quemada, and it is also sold at the
ferias.)
While we were there, a gypsy playing an accordion came in and played some melodies that were so familiar to the crowd, some sang along. It was an absolutely charming touch (and he gained a few coins for that) but, alas, I didn't take pictures. A memorable lunch, for sure.
How about you? Have you ever eaten octopus? Have you ever found yourself eating a dish you thought you never would?
